Andy Smallman

(Disclaimer — I *stole* all the images in this post from Romain’s Facebook page. Tee-hee.)

So the apartment in which we are staying in Nantes is atop the Passage Pommeraye, an incredible little shopping center in the center of the city that opened in 1843. Yes, 18, as in EIGHTEEN, 43. For context, go take a look at this link, and this one, too.

The Boudeaus came over at 5pm to have a little goûter, a late afternoon, typically sweet, snack. Manon made banana bread and we provided kouign-amann and macarons from Maison Georges Larnicol, a shop inside the Passage Pommeraye.

After finishing the tasty treats, we ventured into the center of the shopping area to take some photos. The one at the top is a panorama Romain took. Those below should be fairly self-explanatory (other than Melinda’s expression in the one on the left). Apparently, he didn’t get any shots of his parents…

For our final full day in Paris, Melinda and I engaged in a 2 hour walking tour of the Marais, the neighborhood in Paris in which we are staying. I found the tour online and thought it would be a nice, touristy way to wrap up our two weeks in Paris. Besides, it didn’t cost anything, it wasn’t raining (although it is chilly), and it would be a good way to get some exercise.

If you are interested in taking the tour virtually, follow this link. We followed it pretty much to the letter, link by link. Of great interest to me, Café l’Escurial, the restaurant my grandmother and ate at several times when we came to Paris in 1981, is at the Rue des Francs Bourgeois & the Rue de Turenne, right near the end of the tour. I blogged about that on October 25, 2010.

In terms of the exercise, Melinda’s FitBit told us we walked around 7000 steps while on our tour. So to keep up, you may want to visit the website while on a treadmill or something.

Regarding what’s coming next, we leave in the morning for Nantes, taking the TGV. I’m really excited to get to Nantes, as I always am. Melinda’s and my anniversary is next Wednesday and it looks like it might involve as many as three other couples participating in a progressive dinner. Fun!

In the bad news department, both Melinda and Chloe are now feeling pretty crummy (Ella is hanging in there, she with the flu vaccine). Melinda wasn’t going to stay in today on our last day in Paris, but Chloe chose to do so. But Melinda did miss out on going with Chloe, Ella, and me to the late show playing at the nearby movie theatre last night. We saw “Gone Girl” and were mesmerized by it. An odd movie to be watching on Christmas night, but, man, what a thriller.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is the first Christmas Eve since Perrin was born that we haven’t been with her (and Melinda’s whole family). Ella was lamenting this a bit as the week progressed, that and the awareness that this is her last Christmas as a “child.” She’s not sure what next year will bring, and those thereafter. On top of that, we didn’t get a tree or cut out snowflakes or anything normal. No poppers, even!

Still, we were able last night to watch Perrin open her presents from us via the marvel of FaceTime. What’s FaceTime? Time with your face, I guess, and the faces of others, as you can see in this photo.

What did Perrin get? A Harry Potter book collection and a sorting hat. Perrin put on the hat and we all immediately heard, “Gryffindor!”

Greg, her dad, put it on, too. “Slytherin!”

So, as planned, we left the apartment around 10:45 and made our way to Notre Dame. It was a lovely Christmas Eve walk, from the Marais, across the Seine, to the cathedral. We went past one of the outdoor ice skating rinks. Typically jam-packed with a long line, at this hour it was closed and tranquil. Lots of people (tourists?) nearby, however, taking Christmas Eve photos in the holiday lights.

As we approached Notre Dame, the crowd thickened considerably. Arriving, we saw that the square outside was packed. The 11pm service was being broadcast outside via speakers and a huge screen. To our surprise, people were still being allowed in, but in small groups. The line to get in stretched a considerable distance. We moved to a reasonably vacant area to people-watch and listen to the service. This was the service that focused on Christmas carols and we recognized most, and were even treated to some in English. The Notre Dame choir was incredible, combining children and adults with beautiful arrangements.

Suddenly, the area in which we were standing became flooded with people. Melinda overheard some guards saying that people were to be let in from this spot! Ella was having none of that, though, thinking it wasn’t appropriate for us to go in. But Melinda and Chloe were stoked! In they went. At 11:30pm. On Christmas Eve. At Notre Dame. In Paris. Crazy cool.

Ella and I continued to survey the crowd and the spectacle from outside. From inside, Chloe sent me several text messages (apparently, this is acceptable behavior in the 21st century – on the big screen we could see several people in the congregation using cell phones, cameras and all). She and Melinda were standing along the outer area with a decent view of the proceedings. They couldn’t see the choir but they could hear them. Besides, they were inside Notre Dame! In Paris! On Christmas Eve! As midnight approached!

Soon after midnight, I received a text from Chloe that they were coming out. The midnight mass had begun and some people were being brought out while others kept heading in. I was exchanging texts with my mom in Mercer Island, which was kind of surreal unto itself. Bells were ringing in the city. Ella and I moved to the exit, arriving exactly as Melinda and Chloe came out. We wandered around with the crowd for another 20 minutes or so, taking several photos. Chloe was busy Snapchatting with friends at college and elsewhere. Then we started the walk home.

On the way, we came to a spot where people can rent bicycles. Melinda thought that would be a fun way to get home and Chloe was all in. Ella wasn’t feeling too well and once we had trouble renting more than one bike, she persuaded me to walk back with her. But off rode Melinda and Chloe into the early Christmas Parisian morning.

What a Christmas memory!

I went for a long walk this afternoon, my destination being the Jardin du Luxembourg. I passed by Notre Dame on my way, interested in checking out what might be going on there on Christmas Eve. As you might imagine, quite a lot.

I stopped to snap some pictures at about 3pm. As you can see in the lower photo, there was a long line of people waiting to get in for a regular tour. I’m not sure how they end the tours, but they have their first Christmas mass scheduled at 4:30, followed by a family mass at 6pm. There is an international mass at 8pm, an 11pm mass with carols, and then a midnight mass, as well, if I understand things correctly.

Hmmm… Come to think of it, maybe those folks going in at 3pm were getting inside for the 4:30 mass. Given how many people come to the midnight mass, so many that they set up a huge screen outside the cathedral for everyone outside to watch, it wouldn’t surprise me. We’re talking about heading over to get a feel for things during the 11pm mass, which is in about 4 1/2 hours.

Anyone else heading out to a world-famous cathedral on Christmas Eve?

I don’t really remember seeing a lot of milkshakes when we lived in France four years ago. That’s not to say that they can’t be found. It could be that I don’t actually go looking for milkshakes. Truthfully, I don’t really go looking for them back home, either. But I will say I know where I could find one in Seattle if I wanted one. I’m not really sure where to find one in France.

Apparently, though, milkshakes can be found in Paris. Today, Chloe and Ella went out on their own to do some holiday shopping and one appeared on their table when they stopped for a drink. Melinda and I thought it was a great idea for the two girls to head out without us (the milkshake idea didn’t come up before they left). Just imagine being able to explore Paris, 21 and 18 year-old sisters. And when your parents provide you week-long passes on the Métro, you’re pretty well set.

Melinda and I went out in the Marais. I’m feeling a bit better today after my best night’s sleep since we arrived, although I’m nervous to report that Melinda’s energy is waning. While we were walking she described her “battery” as being at “20%,” which I took to mean she didn’t want to venture too far from the apartment. At one point we passed by a store called “Flu.” I found that name to be apt so I asked Melinda to snap a picture of me with the store name in the frame. She did so reluctantly.

Later in the afternoon I went to the grocery store to pick up some things for dinner (I manufactured a raclette dinner, boiling potatoes and microwaving raclette cheese over the top before adding ham and cornichons). Along the way, I saw some graffiti art on a wall. I thought it was a good reminder and am including it here.