Day 110 (18 October 2010) – Protests Continue

First, my apologies for the quality of the photo. I took it quickly this morning using my cell phone. I hope I can help it make sense.

The picture is at the tram stop Morrhonnière/Petit Port, one short of where Ella gets off for school. In fact, for most of the day the tram couldn’t move past this place, causing some level of disruption for us. When Ella and I arrived at the stop near our house this morning there were so many people waiting that we decided to walk to school. As we passed by the stop seen in this photo, we were surprised to see a bonfire and the spray-painted phrase “En Grève” (“on strike”) on the garage doors. Like dozens of others, we walked on past the demonstration, bonfire and spray paint in order for Ella to get to school.

Being Monday, Ella comes home for lunch so I met her at the school gate and we walked back past the protest to this stop so we could catch a tram home. Melinda and I then accompanied her back to school after lunch, the bonfire still burning, and then we met her again at the end of the school day. By that time, the tram was making its usual runs. But the fire was still going, even with a shopping cart tossed on for good measure.

It’s quite exciting to be here and witness all the social engagement. Tomorrow is supposed to be an even bigger day with strikes and more demonstrations planned. Everything is coming to a head in advance of the government voting on the Pension Act this week. We sure hope it calms down by the weekend. We have plans to travel to Paris on Sunday and stay for a week, the girls both being out of school.

Day 109 (17 October 2010) – 5 Sentences

That’s Laura, our next door neighbor, sitting next to Ella. She came over to help Ella with her history homework this afternoon. On Friday, Ella learned that she has to give an oral report in her history class tomorrow. The topic? She has to present, in French, five sentences on the founding of the United States. Interestingly enough, they are currently studying U.S. history.

Friday night Melinda and I helped Ella come up with five SIMPLE sentences in English. We then showed her how to translate them using the Google translator. But these translations often leave something to be desired, so we suggested she ask Laura to come over some time this weekend to look at her sentences and help get them to be more French-accurate. Additionally, Laura could help her with the pronunciation. So the two sat together working on this for quite a while. Melinda even recorded Laura reading the fine-tuned five sentences so Ella could listen and practice tonight, which is what she is doing now.

What do you think? Does it sound like fun, presenting five sentences in French about the founding of the United States? Anyone wanting to give it try is encouraged to post them using the comments section below. I’ll ask Laura to look them over for you.

Day 108 (16 October 2010) – The Water Taxi at Port Boyer

I just got back from a solo afternoon excursion. I walked, took a bus, Line 1 of the tram, the water taxi, and tram Line 2. I was gone for about 3 hours. I wanted to head in a direction I hadn’t gone recently, so took Bus #72 across the river, exiting at Beaujoire (which, incidentally, is where the soccer stadium is). From there I hopped on Line 1 which begins its run toward the center of town at that stop. As I got off the bus, there was the tram, like it was waiting just for me. I got off Line 1 at Haluchère and then walked to a nearby mall. Inside, I sat at an open area café and had a drink while reading the book I chose for one of my online kindness classes. Then I walked to the LiDL grocery store and did some shopping, filling up my backpack. From there I walked to Port Boyer and grabbed the water taxi. It, too, seemed to be waiting for me. Across the river, I walked to Morrhonnière/Petit Port, a stop along Line 2. As I arrived the tram was pulling in. I rode the tram to our stop, then walked back home. Obviously, my timing is right on today.

I took today’s photo while aboard the water taxi as it crossed the Erdre. Riding this little boat gives me such a sense of satisfaction, one I can’t really explain. It has something to do with there being a boat and captain just waiting for foot passengers wanting to get across the river. I wish Seattle had something like it across Lake Washington to Kirkland.

In a couple of hours we are all meeting the Boudeaus for dinner. Frédérique suggested couscous. I think it’s a great suggestion (no R’s and no L’s!!).

Day 107 (15 October 2010) – Pont de la Motte Rouge

Today’s photo is of the bridge at Motte Rouge, Motte Rouge being one of the stops along Line 2 of the tram and the bridge crossing the Erdre River in Nantes as it heads toward the center of town to connect with the Loire (check out this satellite shot – that’s the tram inside the red box and the bridge inside the white). I took this picture at approximately 8am today, having ridden with Ella to school and stayed on the tram beyond the stop for her school. She was chatting with a friend on the tram (who was inviting Ella to her birthday party in a couple of weeks!) and I wanted to pick up some baked goods (pain aux raisins) for Melinda and Chloe at a different bakery than we normally patronize. All things considered, I just kept riding.

Later in the day, Melinda and I were trying to get back home on Line 2 and had to get off at Motte Rouge. Just like yesterday, protestors had blocked the tracks, thus preventing the tram from continuing on toward our house. We walked to the next stop and caught a different tram home, remarking on how civil these protests are and how casually the people seem to experience having to exit the tram and walk 1/4 mile to the next stop. Then, once at the next stop, the city has tram officials stationed to make sure you get on the correct tram so you can continue on your way. It’s quite remarkable which is why, I guess, Melinda and I keep remarking to each other about it.

I took a call this morning from our friend from Seattle, Janet, who is in Paris. We were still hoping she could head to Nantes today. Unfortunately, the Paris to Nantes train was canceled. She heads home on Sunday so we are disappointed we didn’t get to see her.

Day 106 (14 October 2010) – Crôque Madame

Here is a picture of my lunch today. It’s the classic French sandwich (at least I think it’s a classic French sandwich) called a “Crôque Madame.” I don’t really think there’s a way to translate it but I know the difference between a Crôque Madame and a Crôque Monsieur is that the “madame” has an egg on top. Inside is a piece of ham and some cheese (and there is some cheese melted on top, too). Regarding the word “crôque” and potential translations, Google says it’s an undertaker. Hmmm, that does make for an interesting sounding sandwich (which is why I think it’s hard to provide an English translation).

It was an odd day in Nantes and I assume in all of France. The periodic strikes (grèves) and demonstrations (manifestations) continue. Melinda and I got caught up in the latter. We were riding the tram when it got hit by two apples thrown by passing youth who were opting out of school to voice their displeasure with the likely raising of the retirement age. On top of that, a few minutes later the tram we were on had to stop because of people on the tracks. We got out with everyone else and walked for two stops until another tram could take us home. Those of us walking, which ended up being a lot of people, looked like demonstrators, especially Melinda and me in our dark coats. So if the demonstrations are successful, Melinda and I have done our part. The downside to all of this is that our friend Janet from Seattle and her friend Sue stayed in Paris rather than travel to Nantes to see us.

Day 105 – (13 October 2010) – 100 Days in France!

In some ways, it’s hard for us to believe that we’ve been in France for 100 days. But almost exactly to the minute, 2400 hours ago, our plane from Paris landed in Nantes. To acknowledge this centennial of sorts, I present you quick summaries of what each of us have done to this point today:

Melinda – She got up at 6am in order to try to buy Paris to Nantes train tickets for her family for when they arrive in December. Through some serious online research, Melinda determined that 6am today was the earliest point she could buy these tickets so she got up to do it. Unfortunately and perhaps due to the ongoing strikes in France, she couldn’t buy them online. So she went into town and stood in various lines all morning, finally getting the tickets (not at the lowest price she hoped, but the lowest possible). Since then, other than joining me to assist Manon with an oral presentation she has in her English class tomorrow, Melinda has been doing housework. Her day today may not be what one first thinks of for a sabbatical, but all those little chores of parenting and running a household still need to get done.

Chloe – On Wednesdays Chloe has a 4 hour babysitting job in the morning, first taking care of a 3 year-old and then adding his 10 year-old brother to the mix halfway through. Her job is to talk English to them, fix lunch, that sort of thing. After that she went to the university for her Wednesday afternoon French classes. She’s home now working on her homework and has another babysitting job from 7 to midnight.

Ella – Per usual, Ella left for school at 7:45, about 30 minutes before the sun rises here. Wednesdays is her half day so she was home for lunch. I made hot dogs and fries for her. Before tackling any homework she has for tomorrow, she spent some time online reading websites and watching videos. As I write, she is working on her Spanish (which is taught in French, of course).

Andy – I rode the tram with Ella to school then walked home, which is my typical morning M.O. I reviewed email, specifically that related to the kindness classes, before heading out to do some grocery shopping. I did some tidying up around the house before making lunch for Ella and me. With Melinda, I assisted Manon with her presentation. Then I went to the racetrack to catch the last couple of races (arriving at the point you can get in free). It was trotters today, which interests me a little less.

So there you have it – our 100th day in France! Soon up, it’s tuna, asparagus and fresh French bread for dinner. Here’s to the next 100!

Day 104 (12 October 2010) – Down The Stretch They Come!

I held the camera out and took this picture of myself AND the horses coming down the stretch during the second race of the opening of the fall racing season at the Hippodrome in Nantes. Incredible, I know. It’s what I’d call a “picture perfect” day. Let me just say my grin is attached permanently for this one. All today needed was my dad.

It took me 20 minutes to walk from our front door to the admissions gate at the track, including time to snap photos along the way (I very well may document this day in an online photo album, and I even uploaded some video I shot at the track today to YouTube). Once inside, I familiarized myself with the surroundings and then watched the horses get saddled for the first race. All together, there were eight races – 6 flats, 1 jump, & 2 steeplechases, all on the grass. And, man, are those steeplechases something. Three times around and over a variety of jumps. I’ve never seen anything like it. Melinda biked over to join me for the two steeplechases, and Ella walked from school in time to see the final one.

Yes, I walked to the racetrack, Melinda biked to the racetrack, and Ella caught the last race by walking from school. This may very well be the Smallman idea of heaven.

Regarding my homework: The first race today was at 1:55pm (but the start time varies). It cost me 5€ to get in, including a program. A Racing Form is called Paris-Turf and costs 1,60€. A beer is 2,20€ and is served in a glass (as is the wine, poured from a bottle). There is also a crêpe truck but I opted for a jambon beurre. For those interested, I didn’t place any bets.

Still, I was a big winner today.

Day 103 (11 October 2010) – Sunday’s Lunch

You may recall that John’s family made us a lovely meal in early September, complete with a fancy cake and everything. At that meal, we mentioned that Ella and I were on a French cheeseburger quest. In true neighborly fashion, they offered to make us cheeseburgers in the near future, with teenagers Benoît and Alexandre taking on the cooking duties. Yesterday they delivered on that offer and in fine fashion, I may add.

The photo I’m using to illustrate this kindness is of Céline and Ella just after having been served by Benoît and before taking their first bites. As you might guess, the smiles grew wider as the bites were taken. The boys are fine chefs and the fact that we got to benefit from their ability is pretty satisfying.

Because of various other commitments (homework for some, babysitting for Chloe), the lunch party decreased in size after eating, but I got to play a game of snooker with John & Benoît. Melinda and Anne-Marie watched the nail-biting match. I have enjoyed my snooker lessons and am looking forward to learning the rules of rugby from John in the near future. I think my lessons will involve watching that sport on TV rather than playing…

Day 102 (10 October 2010) – C’est Pareil and Séparer

Dear Frédérique,

I’m looking through the window (je regarde par la fenêtre), thinking about what a fine time Melinda and I had today. We enjoyed watching you finish the race, but most of all we enjoyed laughing with you Laurent, Sandrine and the other Laurent. But it’s time to stop laughing (arrête de rire) now and fix your Laurent a Sunday dinner.

Me, I’m getting a little nervous about going to sleep tonight. In fact, I’m sooo scared (j’ai très très peur) that I might have a nightmare about your French lessons. There are all those words with double L’s that sound like long E’s to me, except for the exceptions, of course. Then there are the R words. I swear I’m going to become fluent in French speaking only words that do not have the letter R.

If you are confused by this letter, I suggest you watch this video.

Sincerely yours,

—Andy

PS -To recap, since c’est pareil and séparer sound different, I have to say “la même chose” and not “la même” when Melinda orders a Ricard, right?

Day 101 (9 October 2010) – Rock ‘n Roll High School

I’m taking liberties with this post to talk about something we actually did last night and not today. Given the significance of it, I trust you sticklers for detail, especially this year’s model, will forgive me. Believe me, writing it allows me to get happy or, as I could say, my aim is true. Please don’t call out the armed forces or I’ll be almost blue.

Okay, enough of that…

Yes, we threw a Rock ‘n Roll High School party last night! It was specifically for Max, who turned 15 last week and, as you may remember, was spotted a couple of weeks back by Melinda and me wearing a Ramones t-shirt. After that encounter I hurried to make Max a mixed CD of music and then ordered a used copy of the classic Rock ‘n Roll High School movie from 1979 through Amazon UK (view the trailer). Last night was the long-awaited viewing. Max arrived in full regalia, Ramones T-shirt, jeans, and a great leather jacket he received from his parents for his birthday (Christine, his mom, is Ms. eBay – she not only found Max’s jacket on eBay but picks up vintage dresses, too). In the photo you’ll recognize Chloe and Ella, of course, and Max in the center. That’s Théo on the far left and Celeste next to him. Youngest sister Claire missed out on the photo. I may have been threatening to tear holes in the knees of her jeans about then.

What a fine time we (or at least Max and I) had. Melinda and I provided nachos and popcorn, and Max’s family brought these incredible homemade brownies and pop. I had to work on not jabbering throughout the movie, although I do admit to an occasional quiet hiss emitting from my throat when Principal Togar was on screen and singing along with “Sheena is a Punk Rocker.”